I have occassionally referred to Goan sausages in my posts.
Well, Goan Sausages are different from any respectable sausage in the West. They are the Scarlett O Haras of the sausage world. Sour as hell, fairly spicy, oily and often are made from pork raised in questionable hygienic conditions. Chances are that you will be hooked into this amazingly, exotic and sinful dish if you were ever to try it. The dish is as saucy and sharp as it gets and I wouldn't even venture to try it without bread, specifically Goan pao. to temper the taste.
The most common form of having Goan sausages is to simply fry it and eat it. You won't get it in most parts of India except Goa of course and Christian parts of Mumbai such as Bandra (meat shops such as Marks, Judes, Joseph's Chicken are good bets). Its quite simple to make and you can try get hold of a pack and make it yourself.
We got some from Infantaria at Goa recently. Here's how Kainaz makes it.
She first par boils some potato cubes (about six minutes in the microwave). Potatoes are a very important part of the 'recipe' as it helps break the sharp taste of the sausages.
The Goan sausage come in a plasticky skin which she slits. She then throws the skin away. A pungent, sour smell of vinegar hits you the moment the skin is slit. The skin is actually the dried intestine of a pig cured with lemon leaves to get rid of the smell (or so says a Bengali friend of mine from deep inside a village in Goa)
Kainaz then takes the pickled meat out and chops it into tiny bits. (You have to really decimate it. I tried making it once with cube like pieces. The result? Under cooked!)
Check out the lovely little pieces of white fat in the interspersed with the meat in the picture below. Rich pork, full of fat, just what Anthony Bourdain would order and just what your doctor would ask you to stay clear off. Well, you only live once.
She then puts the meat on a warm sauce pan and stirs it softly. As the fat begins to melt and enough oil to give the Opec a run for its money comes out. She then adds about one chopped onion/ shallot and stirs this.
The onions begins to get translucent as it cooks. Kainaz then she adds the cubed potatoes and some salt to it and then cooks this till the onions become crisp. The dish is ready to eat.
She doesn't add green chilies but adding sliced green chillies could help you make a Goan sausage chilly fry!
A fantstic dish which as I said is best enjoyed with Goan bread or pao. Just look at the rich colours. Is this a work of art or not?
A Goan take on this dish is to make something called Goan sausage pulao where they make an Indian pulao of sharp Goan sausage bits. You get this only in Goa though. I have even had Goan sausage fried rice at Infantaria. Here they add Goan sausage to Chinese fried rice! How's that for six degrees?
A Facebook friend of mine, a Bengali lady married to a Catholic family in a Goan village, was a bit shocked when she read the recipe here.
She said that Goan sausages had to be cooked a lot more as these pigs live in Goan farms and could have tapeworms. I won't tell you why as they could put you off. But think human garbage disposal, think pigs who eat everything... you get the idea. Though I like to believe that the newer sausage makers rear their pigs in cleaner environs.
This is what she has to say about the authentic way of preparing Goan sausages:
"About home made sausages.
sausage chilli fry :Boil the damn thing (without cutting open the outer cover) for at least 40 minutes (the difference from Kainaz's way). Then remove the cover, chop it etc and stir fry with onion green chillies.
The traditional way a Catholic household would cook sausages is :
- one pack that is 200 gms + 2 potatoes + 2 onions dice big cubes.
- put everything in a saucepan
- add one cup of water- high flame till it starts boiling- dont break open the sausages.- boil for 40 minutes. if need be add a little water in between. It should have a little gravy once ready.
- the gravy turns thickish because of the potatoes and the pork fat
- to be eaten with pulao. the pulao should have general (read as ample) amount of pickled green olives. The pulao typically has a lot of vegetables i.e cauliflower, tomatoes, french beans and carrots, basically to kill the spice and to supplement your vegetable requirement as saussage pulao is not served with any other side dish of vegetables."