Shubho Nobo Borsho - Surviving the Bengali New Year at Oh Calcutta, Tardeo

Yesterday, 15th April, was Poila Boishakh or the Bengali New Year.

As the saying goes, for Bengalis it is Baro maashe tero parbon (13 festivals in twelve months) or an unending series of festivities – Durga Pujo, Kali Pujo, Saraswati Pujo, Dol (Holi), Christmas & Gregorian New Year(!), Lokhhi Pujo and of course Bengali New Year.

Amazingly, while a number of these are Hindu religious festivals, the underlying theme is often that of food!

For people like me, who are part of the Bengali diaspora, this is often the biggest connect with our roots. Let me state my case just in case you thought I was exaggerating. I asked a few fellow Bengalis at work about their New Year plans. All of them answered with a vague, ‘don’t know, some good food probably’. Or, if you go to the Durga Puja at Bandra, you will see many many more people in the food stalls than at the puja where the deity is kept and the prayers happen.

Oh Calcutta, the Bengali restaurant at Tardeo, has been Kainaz's and my favoured haunt for Bengali New Year at Mumbai. It is the only good Bengali restaurant in South Mumbai. A number of Bengali eateries have opened in the suburbs of Andheri and Kandivli. But none in downtown or at Bandra where we stay.

In fact that's my only grouse against my beloved Bandra. No Bengali restaurants or Roll Shops. Why? Aren't we loyal to our biryani? Don't we wince when Ganguly wipes a tear in press conference after being dumped yet again? Don't we bleed when you prick a pin through us? You get the point.

Kainaz and I know the drill by now but here’s what to expect at the Oh Calcutta Poila Boisakh dinner

- Lots of people – remember it is the only big restaurant in South Mumbai right up to Bandra, and Bengali’s will go ONLY to Bengali restaurants on Bengali New year
- A long wait - Going on an empty stomach is not recommended. In our first year Kainaz and I even contemplated going to the nearby MacDonald for a bite while we waited. This year we were fortified ourselves with coffee and a lovely cookie based pudding at Costa Coffee before dinner
- Frayed tempersBengalis, unlike the Rajputs or Sikhs, are not famous for their martial instincts…but make us wait for our dinner and you will see a whole new face of the Bengali Bhadralok (gentleman)
- Buffet spread – they have a special buffet on the new year… around Rs 600 (12 USD) with a good range of Bengali dishes. This time they had kosha chicken, fish fry, mochar chop, kacha lonka mutton, rui in mustard curry, a prawn curry, luchi, rice, pulao, 5 types of mishti (sweets) and other stuff. So why did we give this a miss? They lay the buffet in a spare room which doesn’t have the nice ambience of the main restaurant. It is more like an attic. The waiting period was very long as most people head for this. I am not a big fan of buffets as you are spoilt for choices and can’t concentrate on your favourite things. The food often gets cold and congealed in the trays.
- A la carte – the regular menu is served in the main restaurant. This had a comparative less waiting period. We managed it in less than 30 minutes (went at 9.40 PM and got the table at 10.10 PM) which was a new world record and really impressed Kainaz. I guess years of loyalty to Oh Calcutta and a few blog posts worked in my favour. We had a Chitol (a much sought after fish for Bengalis) maacher kaalia and rice and luchi and kosha manghso. The food was up to their usual high standards despite the crowd and pressure. Damages to the two of us with a Pepsi and rasgulla came to the same as two buffet meals(Rs 1400/ 30 USD for two with no alcohol ). We got to have a lot of what we were particularly fond of. And in the main restaurant, where the setting is far more special and classy. And the food was brought hot to the table unlike in the buffet.
- Calm under fire – I think the staff managed it fairly well despite the petulant crowds. Perhaps those who waited longer might have a different take on this. My Pepsi was flat and there was no fizz when they got it to the table. They changed it when I pointed it out and got a bottle and opened it in front of me
- The crowd – we saw some very typical table groups. 1.Parents and their son who ate in complete silence (we are not a very demonstrative race in comparison to the hugging and kissing Parsis) 2. A mixed group of Bengali and non Bengali friends. The two Bengalis at the table animatedly took over the table, ordered for everyone, had violent debates on Bengali grammar (we are a literary race). Their non Bengali friends and everyone else let a sigh of relief when they stepped out for a smoke (show me a Bengali who doesn’t smoke or wear glasses and I will show you a tiger at Sunderbans) 3. A lot of people of like us who were eating with a blissful smile 4. And the odd Parsi (!) couple from the nearby Parsi neighbourhoods

Well, The Bengali New Year is over and we are back to the English calendar. Not that we need an excuse to eat.

As far as Oh Calcutta and nobo borsho? As they say, ‘aashchhe bochhor aabar hobe’ (once gain next year).

- they serve the New year buffet for lunch too. I reckon that the crowds are less

- notun jama or new clothes are key to a good Bengali New year

Comments knees are weak just thinking of that place. I LOVEEEE Oh Calcutta...I love their chingri malai curry and aloo poshto and Bhappa Hilsa. I go there everytime I miss the flavors of long ago. maybe I need to visit India and mumbai again soon. Sigh!
Scarlett said…
Bengalis' other connects to their roots - Bangla music (ANY Bangla music, not only Rabindra Sangeet) & speaking in Bong :)

I'm traumatized by the Bengalis' love for fish!! By now I totally know the types of fish they eat - there's chitol maach, chingri maach, pabda maach, tangra maach, elish. I can feel them all surrounding me as I write this!!!!!!

But must say Oh Calcutta has very good Bong food & mishti doi. And the ambience too! My friends here also swear by's on Lindsay Street, off Park Street.
Kalyan Karmakar said…
@ A: hey thanks a lot for dropping in. And earlier too. Hope you make it to Mumbai soon. Though, going by your blog, I am sure you can rustle up your favourite dishes sitting in the US (?) too

@Scarlett: Arre you have missed out rui maach. If eelish is the king then rui is the prime minister.

I went to Kasuri just after I started working. Frankly, wasn't that exctied then as didn't see the point of going to a Bong restaurant when we had the stuff at home every day. I think it is run by a woman's organisation

Oh Calcutta is expensive but classy. I just wish they wouldn't play the soulful Rabindra Sangit instrumental all the time

Two bongs do break into Bengali when they meet. But so do (break into their mother tongue) Mallus, Tams, Gujjus, Parsis, Maharashtrians etc
Oh yes, I can...and i do...but there are certain places that beckons you even if it's similar food that you get at home
Rhea said…
No mention of pronaams? I'd get a sore back from all the bending down I had to do!

I loved the part about the debates!! :)

Kosha Mangsho sounds awesome. Got a recipe for it?

Shubho Nobo Borsho!!
Kalyan Karmakar said…
A, true there is a lot more to food than just food. I love the ambinece at Oh Calcutta after their makeover a few years back. Plus as I told the guys at Kewpies when they asked me which was better, Oh Calcutta is a home away from home for me at Bombay. They have been there when I needed them. I am a big fan
Kalyan Karmakar said…
A, its a bit like Candies...I have had better food at other places...and stood in mad queues here....but there is something about the place which makes me love it
Kalyan Karmakar said…
Hey, Rhea its such a coincidence that you asked me about the kosh mangso recipe today. Some of Kainaz's friends are coming over for lunch tomorrow. We normally order home when we have guests. But I am cooking this time. I made kosh mangsho tonight. Here's the recipe

I must say that with some careful planning (including getting the maid to grind the onion and tomato from before) it wasn't that difficult to do. I paralelly made a maacher mudo diey daal for dinner. Again got the maid to make the daal and fry the fish head and I later put these together.

Tomorrow I will make rui kaalia and alu posto which completes the lunch menu.

I am particularly kicked with the kosha mangsho as I made it with 1.5 kg of mutton verus the usual 500 g. And its turned out pretty well. Now if only i can get it to cool so that I can put it in the fridge.

Pronams offered through the phone or on SMS don't screw up the back.
Rhea said…
Cool, thanks. Will check it out. Wait for the feedback. Might take a while, but will cook it! :)
Kalyan Karmakar said…
I have just deleted an anonymous comment. While I have removed comment moderation, we do not use swear words in this blog, we do not allow vitriolic communal barbs in this blog, and we do allow comments whoich do not make any sense in this blog