Love me tender ... the limitations of Fusion Dosas

My friends and family were a bit worried by my recent dosa lunches. "All izzz well?" asked Rahul. "Why are you punishing yourself?" asked K. "Is this the red meat loving Knife that we all know?" wondered the odd reader.

Well I am fond of dosas. Right since my growing up days in Calcutta. My earliest dosa memories are of the ones we used to buy from a restaurant called 'Rim Jhim' in Camac Street at Calcutta. I used to study at the International School close by. And then there were the ones we would buy from the dosa cart guy in Dhakuria. I was less than eight years old then. Yes, I like my dosa. But I don't normally reflect about them. What follows in this post are my recent observations on dosas. This is NOT a definitive guide on dosas. Far from it. A Bengali pontificating on dosa would be as ridiculous as a Keralite extolling the virtues of Hilsa.

I realised soon in life that there are different types of dosas. Just as all South Indians are not 'Madrasis'. I realised that dosas could be crisp, limp or thick. Then I came to Mumbai and discovered Mysore, Rava and Spring dosas.

'Spring Dosa?' Yes, you heard me right. I first had this Chinese spring roll based dosa from Kamat's near Dadar. We used to gorge on it when we would order it from office in the evening. There wasn't much else on offer.

This post is about Spring Dosa and its ilk. The clan of over stuffed, 'Fusion', dosas. I am no stranger to stuffed dosas. The potato based 'masala dosa' is of course as regular as 'sada' or plain dosas. I remember my mother eating mutton kheema dosas in the Grand at Calcutta when I was really young. I have had prawn dosas at Dosa Diner years back at Mumbai. And I got the omelette guys at the breakfast counter lend some ham, cheese and peppers to the dosa guy in the Holiday Inn Goa breakfast buffet. I got this ham dosa made during our honeymoon. These light fillings are fine. My problem is with over engineered fillings in dosa.

To understand why, think a bit about dosa and what makes it unique. All other Indian breads - puris, parathas and rotis of the North and luchis of the East are meant to be had with accompaniments. E.g. Daal, potatao subzi, meat curry and so on. However Dosas, the rice based crepes of the South, can be had by themselves with some chutney or sambhar on the side. Dosas are delicate, subtle, polite. Their delicacy lies in their simplicity. They taste best when left uninterfered.

Nothing kills dosas the way heavy fillings do. Dosas don't take kindly to being molested by masalas. They curl up in protest when overloaded. You are left with the taste of the filling. The presence of dosa almost nonexistent.

My two recent dosa lunches bring out this problem very well.

The first was at a dosa stall outside Mithibai College in Juhu. All sorts of side plots were added to the dosa. Chilly sauce, Schezwan sauce, tomato sauce, grated beetroots, coriander, onion, paneer, paneer masala, butter paneer, just butter, cheese, chutney and what have you. The pyrotechnics resulted in rainbow dosas which blinded the eye with their brilliance. The taste was sharp, overpowering, dominating. Unfortunately, the taste was that of the stuffing. The humble and noble Indian crepe tucked away far in the backround.

Some say that is not the way South Indian grannies wanted their children to eat dosas. People allege that these technicolour cousins of dosas are attempts of restaurateurs to cater to Gujarati patrons. Moneyed vegetarians who seek variety in food but are limited by their devotion to flora and not fauna. As a Bengali, I will try hard to stay out of this debate.







My next experience was at Rama Nayak's shop called Udipi near King's Circle. We went there as it was air conditioned unlike the other place beside it. Udipi is a town in South India. The restaurant was owned by South Indians. I am not qualified to say whether these dosas were authentic but they surely tasted and looked different from the polyester dosas outside Mithibai. The only stuffing available here was potato (macula), spinach (palace) or cheese. We tried Utahans, Mysore Rave masala and Mysore masala butter onion dosas.


The first thing that struck me about these dosas was the fact that the dosa, or the crepe, was the hero of the dish. Not the filling. The potato of the masala filling politely bowed to the reassuring crunch of the dosa crepe.


Another interesting thing was their version of the 'Mysore' base. There are as many versions of 'Mysore' as there are of butter chicken. This could range from the red paint that the guy opposite Nirmal at Narima Point would use to the Pudina (mint) chutney of Shiv Sagar Bandra. The 'Mysore' base here was a dryish, orange coloured masala which was quite erudite and noble. The resultant taste of nice firm dosa and the subtle masala smacked of the glorious Sangam poetry of Tamil Nadu and of Carnatic Music.


The third distinguishing aspect was the sambhar. This was salty, in a nice way. Not sweet unlike the Shiv Sagar Bandra sambhar. The latter ascribed by many again to the Gujarati influence.


I don't know if the dosas at Rama Nayak are classical or not. But they worked better for me in comparison to the remixed dosas of the Mithibai lane.


Note: Please excuse the poor quality of pictures from cell phone below. The do not do justice to the visual appeal of the stately dosas of Rama Nayak's Udipi.






I guess for me dosas need to be plain an simple the way Amma meant them to be.


Editor's Note: I would request regular readers of Finely Chopped to bear with me. I promise you more meat in posts very soon.

Comments

http: said…
Nice post..
Does it have to be meat ? Like these variations.... Not that I have anything against meat!
mick_cruise said…
actually the sweetened sambar cant be ascribed to the gujratis, the sambar you get in most of the udipis are similar to the sambar made in karnataka and is always sweet, the sambar from TN,kerala etc are usually the "non sweet" version
Scarlett said…
You are so funny! This post brought alive memories of having dosas at various joints in Mumbai. While some restaurants would call a bright red paste the Mysore masala, some, like Bandra's Shiv Sagar, would use a green paste for their Mysore masala dosas.

The various 'fusion' dosas as well as sweet sambhars are meant primarily to cater to the large Gujrati population of Mumbai. But I prefer my dosas without such accoutrements or pyrotechnics, and my sambhar salty.

Madras Cafe at King's Circle is an excellent place for authentic dosas in Bombay. My favorite is a plain masala dosa. Even though I'm not a big fan of dosas, there are times when I crave one.
The knife said…
Http: said thanks :)

Somoo (HCOF)... bulk of the stuffings are vegetarian. Non veg is very rare

Hey Mick Cruise, that's interesting. Just shows the variety that's their in the world of dosas. And, as a happy coincidence, this suits the
palates of the biggest patrons too

Scarlett: Funny? People are worried for me. Dosas work for me, sp when fried, crunchy and sinful.

We went to Madras Cafe once. It was shut the other day as it was a Monday. Udipi was a slightly more genteel and expensive experience
mentalie said…
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mentalie said…
you might be bengali, but you have the heart of a dosa eater. i have three words to say to you, my friend - my mother's dosas
Rhea said…
This post was funny!! Appealed to my palate too. Am a BIG fan of South Indian food, dosas being a large part of that!

Keema Dosas are yummy, but I can see the Rainbow Dosas being a problem with me too!!

Shantisagar in B'lore has awesome dosas.
The knife said…
Mentalie: My three words - 'where are they'?

Rhea... I like the subtlety of South Indian food. But they sort of loose it when they overdose stuff
Pinku said…
Mysore masala does take on different colors, flavors and texture even in Delhi.

Funny part is once you land in Bangalore no one seems to know of any such dish.
The knife said…
Pinku, that sounds like the legendary Manchurian chicken. Invented by Nelson Wang in India apparently
Moonshine said…
No place like madras cafe for good souht indian breakfast. Used to land up there every sunday for breakfast..

And now i can make dosa (dosha as i like to call it.. in the mallu way) .. at home.. using shop bought batter.. it now comes out round in shape and thin and crisp too :)
The knife said…
Moonshine... congrats, making doshas would be quite an achievement
Miri said…
You have done wonderful justice to the dosai - True blue Tamil certificate. Many people don't seem to understand that the beauty of the dosai lies in its simplicity. My grand aunt makes these (almost) pure white dosais which are soft and vanish in seconds. Now these are so unlike the brown,crisp huge gigantic ones served outside that one could possible even turn their nose up at it - but one morsel of these soft circles of heaven and you realise what you have been missing trying to get those crisp rounds at home!!

I have eaten a LOT at this Udipi (used to live in Matunga for 20 years before we moved)and love the place. Anand Bhavan and Shree Sundar's was another favourite. Sambar which is made at home though is very different from the sweet sambar from Udipi (I have recipes for both on my blog). The Tamil Sambar is a lovely meld of lentils, tamarind, spices and salt - no sugar anywhere and much thicker with some lovely vegetables in it.
The knife said…
Thanks Miri. Some dishes should just not be interfered with. I so wish I could have had your grand aunt's dosas for lunch now :) The sambhar in the Matunga places weren't sweet
Silvia Martin said…
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Silvia Martin said…
Yummy!
It is a mouth watering food.
I just Love Dosa, especially Masala Dosa and Paneer Dosa.
I heard that south India food of Sagar Ratna (Delhi Restaurant) is very famous and delious too.
I and Alan will definitely try it on our next flights to Delhi.
Saradhi Rajan said…
Different south indians eat their dosas in different ways. In deepest Tamil Nadu (Madurai and its environs) the right way to eat a dosa is with slow cooked mutton (varutu curry) or blood curry